NBC News: These women embraced their gray hair during Covid. Now they're never going back.
Lena Ott, founder and color director of Suite Caroline Salon in New York City, similarly saw many clients with new perspectives on their grays when they reentered the salon this past year. "The majority saw themselves, saw their roots, saw everything and said, 'You know, I don't mind it,'" Ott said.
Ott, who dyed the wigs for the Dolce & Gabbana show in Venice this summer, also believes gray hair can make for a flattering and even fresher look for many women. "It's almost like natural highlights but in a silver tone," Ott said. "I'm fascinated by it. I'm intrigued by it. I think it's beautiful."
Letting gray hair flourish can also be done with the help of a colorist. Ott, for example, uses the french hair painting technique, Balayage, to blend a client's grays with the rest of their hair color. Friendly to all hair textures, it's a process that can also bring intentionality, and even sparkle, to a client's look. "I like working with the gray versus trying to eliminate it," Ott said.
Rather than trips to the salon every two to three weeks to dye gray roots, blending also requires less time in the salon because it builds upon a client's existing grays. "There's nothing empowering about feeling like you need to do your hair every two weeks," Ott explained. "I always try to steer clients in that direction because I know that you're only going to become more gray."
R29: Top Haircut & Style Trends For Fresh Look Fall 2021
Senior Stylist, Neil Grupp
Nothing says autumnal fashion quite like green suede styled with a fresh-cut bob that's sharp and heavy, hitting right at the jawline.
When in doubt, between short and long, go for an easy mid-length cut. It will grow out nicely over the next three months, at which point you might decide you're ready to take it shorter than your shoulders.
Harper's Bazaar: 7 Things You Missed at Dolce & Gabbana's Epic Venice Alta Moda Show
The star-studded show included celeb kids on the runway, JLo on a gondala, and a celebration of Italian craftsmanship.
Some of the models wore wigs inspired by gemstones, antiques and the deep and complex colors of Venice. There were 43 different off-the-cuff colors from pale sapphire to fiery copper shone. The hair was a three-way collaboration between Lena Ott who dyed the wigs, Guido Palau who styled the hair and wigs on the ground, and colorist Ryuta Sayama.
Vogue: The 11 Biggest Fall Hair Color Trends of 2021
“After the summer months have come and gone, and people are returning from their vacations and adventures where hair has been tied up in a bun, sun-drenched, and bleached out, they’re preparing to get back to the real day-to-day world,” explains Mauricio Bermudez, senior colorist at Suite Caroline salon in New York City. “Early days of fall are like the first episode of a new season, and people want to make a fresh impression with a renewed sense of energy. Debuting a fresh hair hue immediately communicates to yourself and to others that you’re ready for the change that comes with a new season.”
The Zoe Report: Experts Say These Hair Color Trends Will Be Everywhere This Fall
But, if natural shades are more your speed, you’re in luck: Karly Cerrone, a colorist at Suite Caroline in Soho, is predicting a rise in earthy tones. “It’s [about] incorporating the tones that are found in nature into hair color,” she says about the emerging trend. “[For instance,] really taking those sun-bleached highlights and repurposing them into a whole new feel.” Unsurprisingly, she says everyone’s hair feels a bit dry and crispy after months sitting in the sun and from bleaching out their ends. “Think of this polished, earthy revamp as the aloe vera to sunburnt hair.”
According to Cerrone, blue is an unexpected, but stunning color choice emerging for fall. “Not just any blue though; a very pale, cool-ice hue of blue,” she says. “[It] has a similarity to the tones of the iced-over mountains in Iceland. This color is here for those who march to their own beat.”
The T List: Five Things We Recommend This Week
Ulla Johnson’s beauty routine, a film by Yael Bartana — and more.
"For my hair, I see Lena Ott at Suite Caroline, and she got me hooked on Reverie’s Milk Anti-Frizz Leave-in Nourishing Treatment. It moisturizes your hair and tames the ends but isn’t heavy. I love that tousled beach look year-round."
R29: “Pearly Golden” Balayage Is The New Way To Go Blonde
Byrdie: The Best Haircuts to Complement a Bigger Forehead, According to Stylists
- Jordan M is an editorial hairdresser at Suite Caroline based in New York City.
A full-on fringe is a big commitment, especially for first-timers. "They're going to require some extra styling in the morning," M says, "and if you don't like them, it's an even bigger commitment to grow them back out." To avoid future regrets, grab a faux bang to try on for size first. You don't want bangs to be an impulsive easy answer for boredom or defeat, M warns. A faux bang will help give you a realistic idea of what life with a fringe really feels like, so you can approach the salon with excitement rather than uncertainty.
Salon Today: Salon Tour: Suite Caroline’s Artistic Loft in the Heart of SoHo
Suite Caroline is a New York City go-to for the French hair-painting technique balayage. The nuanced technique is personal and led by the appreciation of natural beauty. The natural elements like brick and greenery capture the intimate level of the team's artistry.
Vogue: The 17 Best Beauty Products of 2020, According to Fashion’s Top Hairstylists, Makeup Artists, and More
Lena Ott, The Colorist
The Christophe Robin Color Shield Hair Mask and Shampoo was an instant Suite Caroline favorite. The shampoo is incredible, as it combines Christophe Robin’s top shampoo and conditioner for color-treated hair into one formula. This duo is our aftercare best friend, locking in and preserving the radiance of our nuanced and vibrant color techniques.
Hair Party-- A versatile product created by one of our very own Suite Caroline artists, Hair Party works well for all hair types, from straight to coily and from medium to coarse in texture. This is a product to get creative and have some fun with. Try transforming it into an oil for use on dry hair to create lived-in, je ne sais quoi texture, or use it as a pomade to shape brows. Not to mention, it has an amazing scent, which includes natural notes of vetiver, white fir, sage, and rosewood, among others.
The Salon as Art Gallery: Suite Caroline X Shoplifter
Months ago, when non-essential businesses were shut during the first Coronavirus lockdown (some countries, regions or cities all over the world are going through a second local lockdown as we write), many of us missed not being able to have a basic haircut and longed for a hair treatment or a scalp massage.
The Zoe Report: The New York City Haircut Trends To Ask For, From SoHo To South Williamsburg
And as many aren't styling their hair as often during the pandemic, Neil Grupp, a hairstylist at Suite Caroline Salon in Soho, is seeing less heat applied to the hair and, in turn, more natural, healthier locks. "In the fall, you can be more aggressive with weight removal because in New York you don’t have to deal with humidity and possibly the hair becoming to big," he adds.
Vogue: It Took a Global Pandemic for Me to Finally Embrace Going Gray in My 30s
My husband had to do it for me. I’d spent the last two-and-a-half years waiting patiently for it, and when push came to shove, I didn’t even have the guts to shear it myself. I’m talking about my hair, and cutting off the last few inches of reddish-brown from the gray mane I’d been painstakingly growing out since my 34th birthday. It was mid-quarantine, and I couldn’t look at the shaggy, badly dyed copper-color ends any longer. At the beginning of the year, I’d planned a cathartic trip to Suite Caroline Salon in SoHo where I’d get a stylish haircut to flaunt going totally silver. Alas, as the days turned to months and we all stayed inside, I looked at the long strands, reaching almost to my waist, and realized that in order to save myself from looking full-on granny, a good three to four inches would have to go.
VOGUE PARIS: HAIR TRENDS: THE 8 COLORS THAT WILL BE SEEN EVERYWHERE THIS FALL Hair color by Lena Ott
Lena Ott , a New York-based colourist who worked with the hair stylist Duffy for parades of Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton , and Alexander Wang , confirms: "The strawberry blond, glimpsed on the models Issa Lish and Remington Williams , is the the inevitable trend of the fall-winter season 2019-2020, many blonde women come to my Caroline Suite living room to adopt this shimmering color. "
CLICK HERE for all trends
Lena Ott built her cult following by doing balayage and rainbow colors, but it's her way with bleach that sent her career skyrocketing. In 2010, Alexander Wang asked her to bleach his eyebrows, which was followed by a mammoth hair test for his fall collection. Fast-forward a couple of years, and she's the go-to girl for Doutzen Kroes, Scarlett Johansson, and Dree Hemingway — an impossibly cool triumvirate that we're dubbing the Super Flaxens.
Suite Caroline, 65 Greene Street (between Spring and Broome streets), 2nd Floor; 212-431-4400.
Single Process: $200; Highlights: From $250; Single Process and Highlights: From $700.
Full List CLICK HERE
VOGUE: THIS WANG GANG MODEL JUST WENT EXTREME PLATINUM BLONDE FOR THE ALEXANDER WANG RUNWAY
VOGUE: WHAT THE SAINT LAURENT RUNWAY JUST TAUGHT US ABOUT BEAUTY AT PARIS FASHION WEEK
VOGUE: MODEL ANJA RUBIK JUST GOT A DAVID BOWIE RED DYE JOB FOR THE SAINT LAURENT RUNWAY
VOGUE: THIS MODEL WENT EXTREME BLONDE FOR PARIS FASHION WEEK—AND SHE’S NEARLY UNRECOGNIZABLE
Enter Saint Laurent’s serendipitous call to action a few weeks back, with casting director Piergiorgio Del Moro and stylist Alastair McKimm not only encouraging her to push the blonde envelope for the show, but bringing in the big guns—hairstylist Duffy and colorist Lena Ott—to help her execute the final stages for her radical icy reveal on the Paris catwalks. And while her artificially lightened strands and arches bring plenty of shock factor on their own, her new, chin-grazing cut is also a vital part of the equation. “It’s a modern take on a classic bowl with a layered undercut that takes out the thickness and allows it to sit super tight to her head,” he explains. “The fringe [accentuates] her cheekbones and the length hits right at the jawline, revealing her shoulders and long neck, which were drowned out before under all that dark hair.” And Brannon is already right at home in yesterday’s glossy, finger-raked take on her abbreviated chop. “I like how it’s similar to Carrie-Anne Moss as Trinity in The Matrix,” she says.
Full story CLICK HERE
THE COVETEUR: 55-TIME VOGUE COVER MODEL SWEARS BY..
“I color my hair with Christophe Robin [in Paris], he’s so cool, so funny, his humor is everything. And his products, too, like the Lavender Oil, and the special color shampoo for blondes is a good quick fix if your hair is losing color. I also go to Lena Ott at Suite Caroline [in New York]. Her colors are amazing. She knows exactly what you want. She can do this nice baby blonde.”
OUIA: HOW YOUR FAVORITE BLONDE CELEBRITIES KICK BRASSINESS TO THE CURB
Do blondes have more fun? The OUAI jury is still out on that one. If you've ever taken the peroxide plunge, you know from experience that the saying only comes true after you've nailed the recipe for goodbye-ing brassy tones. Whether you're (trying) to have more fun in a high-wattage hue like Kim Kardashian or a balayage blonde like Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, finding a regimen that maintains that angelic color while also moisturizing it isn't as easy as a Google search. Ahead, celebrity colorists Riawna Capri, co-owner of Nine Zero One Salon in LA, and Lena Ott, owner of Suite Caroline in NY, spill their secrets on how they eliminate icky, brassy tones on their A-list clients, including the right shampoos, conditioners, and culprits to keep in mind while kicking brassiness to the curb.
VOGUE: THIS DIY HAIR COLOR IS WORTH A DOUBLE TAKE AT NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
From the flowing kaleidoscopic silks to the prismatic prints, Sander Lak’s Fall 2018 collection for Sies Marjan was a technicolor feast for editors' bleary eyes. But one glance at the well-lit runway proved the powerful palette wasn’t limited to the designs: Model Harleth Kuusik's light lengths were tinged cotton-candy pink for the occasion, while Stella Lucia, nary a stranger to a backstage transformation, appeared as if she was dipped in a hue of baby-blue, her roots getting the better of the custom treatment.
"It's very subtle,” said celebrity colorist Lena Ott of the reverse ombré pops she achieved by sweeping models' crowns with a paintbrush swirled in PanPastel chalks picked up at her local art store. To further “soften” the low-maintenance look, Ott simply combed the temporary color through from top to bottom. Perhaps easiest of all? "It'll come out with just one shampoo," she noted happily. For fans of ‘90s grunge, or simply those hoping to stand out from the crowd, consider this DIY hair move by Sies Marjan both fail-safe and Vogue approved.
CLICK HERE to view on Vogue.com
COVETEUR: 4 MAJOR HAIR MAKEOVERS THAT WILL INSPIRE YOUR NEXT SALON VISIT
So far 2018 is all about big change. Not only in regard to some major cultural shifts, but also for some of our Coveteur editors and friends who decided to kick off the year with updated hair color. (Jenny McCarthy got the memo, too, apparently.) In the face of progress like #MeToo and Time’s Up, a trip to the salon may sound trivial, but in reality, sometimes it’s how you express yourself on the outside that helps you communicate to the world and support what’s going on inside, too. And there’s a ripple effect throughout the rest of your life: new makeup and outfit choices, or even just a fresh conversation starter.
THE CUT: LAUREN SANTO DOMINGO ON KIT KATS, SILK PAJAMAS, AND WHAT SHE WOULD NEVER WEAR
I have my hair colored by Lena Ott at Suite Caroline in New York, and I get it cut in London by George Northwood.
Read Lauren's full Q&A CLICK HERE
VOGUE: LENA DUNHAM REVEALS HER FIERY RED HAIR TRANSFORMATION IN EXCLUSIVE POLAROIDS
It’s an early-summer afternoon when I arrive at hair colorist Lena Ott’s Suite Caroline studio in SoHo, practically guarding my oily, mousy-brown head. In a few hours my hair will be red, and there will be no turning back. (Other Lena, as I take to calling her, assures me it’s a punishing color to remove, as challenging to banish as it is to get right.) I worry about how I’ll feel—bewitched, beguiled, or bewigged?
Read full story CLICK HERE
MANE ADDICTS: THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SEMI AND DEMI PERMANENT HAIR COLOR
By now, we’re well-versed on the difference between balayage and highlights, and caught up on the latest techniques, including oil slick color and palm painting. Still, there’s a lot of ground to cover on the basics of color. Naturally, the effort to figure out the facts of our color falls to the wayside when we sit back, relax, and peruse a glossy as our colorist puts in work. For anyone who’s ever had their hair colored, ask yourself: Did my colorist apply a semi permanent hair color? Or semi permanent’s cousin, demi permanent? Ahead, colorist Chris Greene from Meche Salon in Los Angeles, and editorial colorist Mauricio Bermudez, who mane-paints models like Katie Moore and Stella Maxwell out of SuiteCaroline Salon in NYC, break down the difference: semi permanent versus demi permanent.
DAILY MAIL: CHRISTINA RICCI IS ALMOST UNRECOGNIZABLE WITH NEW BLONDE HAIR AT VALENTINO FASHION SHOW
HAIR COLOR BY LENA OTT AT SUITE CAROLINE SALON
She may have died her locks years ago.
And though Christina Ricci has made her name as a blonde bombshell she managed to go even lighter.
The 37-year-old actress showed off her new platinum locks as she attended the star-studded Valentino 2018 Resort Fashion show in New York City on Tuesday.
SELF: OLIVIA WILDE'S PLATINUM BLONDE HAIR LOOKS SO FREAKING GOOD
Olivia Wilde's blonde transformation by Colorist, Lena Ott
Say goodbye to Olivia Wilde's ombré tresses and hello to her platinum hair makeover. The star is officially a member of the blonde brigade, and the new color has us thinking about going a shade lighter, too.
On Tuesday, Wilde debuted the fresh hair color on Instagram writing, "What's up, blonde life?" In the selfie, you can see that her makeover includes more than just a new color. Wilde also chopped off a few inches and is rocking a blunt bob with longer pieces in the front. And she traded her beach waves for a sleek, straight style with a deep side part.
Wilde posted two more pictures of the look—one laughing it up with Kate Mara and another showing off her hair-flipping skills. From the looks of her Instagram posts, she's having a blast being a blonde.
INTO THE GLOSS: CHRISTINA RICCI
I'm obsessed with this guy Christophe Robin, he makes the best products. The Cleansing Mask is so good, I could wash my hair with it every day and it wouldn't strip it. When I was doing press for Z: The Beginning of Everything, [the stylists would use] all of this different stuff and it would make my hair so gross, so I'd use the Cleansing Mask every day with the Regenerating Mask or the purple one for blondes. I have very dark hair naturally, but I'm blond now. I wear wigs, but I'd always wanted to be blond, and I have Lena from Suite Caroline do it. She's the blond whisperer. I'm obsessed with the color, and it feels so healthy.
This is my other favorite thing—Sebastian Potion 9. I've been using that since I was 13 years old. If you mention it to a hair stylist, they'll be like, 'That's from the '70s.' My whole family uses it. It's a leave-in conditioner treatment and it's the best product ever. It dries hard, and so if your hair is damaged or frizzy, it doesn't let the frizz happen. Then when you run your fingers through it it just holds whatever position it dries in. It's incredible. I'll use that and add in the Christophe Robin Moisturizing Hair Cream, because I worry about damage. I also cut my own hair. I use a hair cutting razor—I think that's what it's called? I practiced a good amount.
VOGUE: ONE ALL-AMERICAN IT GIRL PROVES ORANGE HAIR IS STILL A RIOT
As a quick glance at our president-elect might reveal, the color orange rarely factors into a winning beauty palette. Yet that’s exactly why Dree Hemingway’snew tangerine mane felt like a revelation when it hit Instagram last night—a pretty proposition that appeared equally punk.
Just when we thought candy-color hair was losing its edge, the model and actress was spotted shaking her freshly tinted strands for colorist Lena Ott, filled with the kind of new-hair-new-me exuberance that anyone who has ever hightailed it to the salon will recognize. Far from a solid Manic Panic number, the souped-up shade of ginger was artfully threaded with a subtle ombré, to say nothing of the lived-in rocker vibe provided by a few inches of natural roots. And by exchanging a hefty dose of eyeliner for clean skin and bare lashes, Hemingway added a surprisingly fresh counterpoint that felt far more subversive. Orange hair, don’t care—not when it looks like this.
VOGUE: HOW A BOLD NEW HAIR COLOR RADICALLY TRANSFORMED THIS MODEL OF THE MOMENT
When Li Xiao Xing stepped into the Vogue.com offices last week, clad in slick denim and color-blocked Jacquemus, a row of heads literally turned to follow her down the hall. Though the Chinese model’s long, lean frame and razor-sharp cheekbones are admittedly hard to miss, it was, almost certainly, the river of baby blonde hair falling down her back that generated the whiplash effect.
It’s been six months since the Hebei native booked her first double process, after an agent spotted her at a costume party in a platinum wig. Struck by the way it made her almost feline features pop, he begged her to give the look a try ahead of the Fall 2016 shows. “I was like, seriously? That was just a wig I can take off and go home,” she tells me, shaking a hand through her roots. “But he knows that I’m a bit of a crazy girl, so he told me to think of it as a challenge—so I did it.” At the Suite Caroline salon under Lena Ott’s expert hand (the colorist now responsible for maintaining model Fernanda Ly’s bubblegum pink), Li doused her head in burning bleach over the course of 10 hours (“Four times, I remember, I was really dying”) and emerged with a game-changing look that soon catapulted her to the top of casting lists for the oncoming runway season.
More on Vogue.com
FASHION UNFILTERED: WHY DREE HEMINGWAY REALLY DITCHED THE “LITTLE MISS SUNSHINE BLONDE”
In a recent interview with Fashion Unfiltered, Dree Hemingway made it clear that she doesn’t want to be typecast as the “Little Miss Sunshine blonde.” (She’s also “not afraid of a boob out ever,” which is evident on the cover of Twin magazine hitting stands today.) A radical dye job doesn’t frighten the actress either: “I don’t like to fit into a box and my hair doesn’t dictate my personality,” said Hemingway at last night’s Coach Pre-Fall show, where she rocked punky tangerine strands by Suite Caroline founder and colorist Lena Ott. While the Soho salon has an esteemed reputation for flawless, buttery blondes—seen recently on the runway at the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show on the likes of Devon Windsor, Stella Maxwell, Megan Williams, Rachel Hilbert, and Elsa Hosk—they also do a mean set of rainbow highlights. Ott was able to tap into Hemginway’s “inner unicorn” and bring out the “Dreamsicle” in Dree. As for the real reason the Chloé girl decided to take the plunge: “I turned 29 and I thought I would regret not doing something wild before I turn 30. Also, fuck 2016—horrid year.” Buh-bye blonde—hello fresh, orange outlook.
MANE ADDICTS: NEW YORK: WALLFLOWERS EXHIBIT AT SUITE CAROLINE
It’s safe to say natural-looking ombre and French balayage techniques are the long lasting color techniques that are here to stay. There’s a whole culture around natural looking hair, in the salon and on the runway… so what’s on the other end of the spectrum?
“We really want to elevate colored hair,” explains colorist Cara Craig of the Wallflowers photography exhibit that debuted last week at Suite Caroline Salon in SoHo. “We wanted to present hair color in a whole new light.”
And they certainly did. After being in their salon environment for a mere ten minutes, I found myself wanting to chop off my long locks and color my mane. I seriously could have sat down in a chair at that moment and completely surrendered to any of the Mane Masters behind the chair at Suite Caroline. Which made me realize, isn’t that the way a salon is supposed to feel? And why after being in a salon nearly my entire life, have I never experienced that sensation before?
Lena Ott, founder of Suite Caroline and colorist to the stars, art directed, conceptualized, and colored the manes for this whole shoot in one week and shot it all with photographer Ryan Michael Kelly in one day. They showcased four colored manes – pink, purple, blue, and green – on real women, in a very relaxed state that took this idea of “lived-in” hair to a whole new level. In a place like New York where the cultural norm is the “I-don’t-care-what-you-think” look clothed in black, color is usually seen as nothing but a trend. The Wallflowers exhibit made it very clear to us that that is no longer the case. With hair stylist and fellow salon member Amy Farid on board, and makeup artist Robert Greene, the shoot definitely showcased a very natural perspective to bold, bright hair colors being accessible versus alternative.
Suite Caroline has only been open for just short of two years now. While this exhibit was dripping with shades of color from the manes of guests down to the salted rims of our margaritas, it was simply too successful to stand alone.
Details aside, this event was more than a statement, it was a call to action. We’re excited to see what else Lena and the SC team has up their sleeves in the years ahead. Be sure to swing by the salon to view The Wallflowers and join the colored mane movement.
Vision and Clorist: Lena Ott @lenaott
Photographer: Ryan Michael Kelly @ryanmichaelkelly
Styling: Amy Farid @therealamyfarid
Colorist: Cara Craig @caralangcraig
Makeups: Robert Greene @greenerobert
Suite Caroline Salon @suitecarolinesalon
Mint: Erin Victoria Axtell @erinvictoriaaxtellart
Pink: Colleen Rochette @colleenrochette
Neon Green: Sarah Bergneheim @bergferguson
Brunette: Raquel Nave @Raquel_Nave
Blue: Cara Craig @caralangcraig
VOGUE: JEMIMA KIRKE'S FIRST DYE JOB EVER IS PINK
The latest Girls actress to undergo a hair transformation (HBO costars Lena Dunham and Zosia Mamet have recently been spotted with platinum dye jobs), Jemima Kirke debuted her new pastel pink color at last night’s Metropolitan Opera season opening. The simultaneously romantic and subversive shade was made all the more daring because, according to Lena Ott, the colorist responsible for the rosey hue, “she’s never dyed her hair before.”
Inspired by **Kate Moss’**s pink dye job for the spring 1999 Versace runway, Kirke requested a fading color that would only get better as it washed out. With that in mind, Ott first highlighted the actress’s virgin honey-brown hair, then dyed her entire head with a custom blend of Manic Panic Cotton Candy Pink and Manic Panic Cleo Rose. “This way it fades almost naturally, with a soft line and the ends retaining the most color.”
Swept into an Old Hollywood deep side part and paired with a bright poppy lip, Kirke’s tumbling waves have us thinking pink.
THE COVETEUR: HOW TO GET JEMIMA KIRKE’S PINK HAIR
Lena Ott, the colorist behind our new favorite head of hair, on how to get (and keep) the perfect pink.
When we heard that Girls star, Lena Dunham bestie and all around untouchable Brooklyn cool girl Jemima Kirke had dyed her unattainably long, all-natural hair pink, it took us about 10 seconds to find out who was responsible before sending a message asking—no, begging—for all the deets. What can we say? The fact that Kirke’s first choice having not dyed her hair, like, not once in her entire life (which is pretty unicorn-like these days, TBH), was to head to Lena Ott’s Suite Caroline salon to go bubblegum pink is, in our world, big deal, get your serious journalist hat on, news. Okay, so we’re joking—but honestly, the look was cool, it was different, and we’ll admit it: we were more than a little curious.
One phone call with the colorist later and we’re ready to share our findings. Keep in mind that Ott is also the hair genius behind Martha Hunt, Lizzy Plapinger of MS MR, Anja Rubik and Florence Welch’s chameleonic colors—a.k.a. pretty much every head of hair you’ve ever bothered to pin—so we knew we were getting an IRL expert. Herein, the products to use, the way to get bright or faded color and Ott’s prediction for the fashion world’s next hair color obsession. You saw it here first, kids.
ON HOW TO GET THE FADED PASTEL VS. THE SUPER-SATURATED NEON…
“The majority of the time, they need to be lightened first. If not, it might be a little more grungy and muted than [what you’d] usually want. It also depends on who the client is, because I do Lizzy Plapinger from MS MR, she’s pink, and she’s a rock star on stage, so I bleach her whole head. There are some really great photos of her for Stella McCartney’s new campaign right now. So in her situation I’ll do a double process: a platinum Marilyn Monroe blonde and then put the pink on. But with Jemima [Kirke], her hair is so long, she’s so organic. So I did [blonde] highlights instead, that way she didn’t have a harsh line as her hair grows. Her reference that she loved is Kate Moss in the ‘90s. Kate Moss started out with this ultra-violet pink, which is what I started out with, but then it faded. Jemima’s favorite was actually that faded color.”
ON THE INEVITABLE FADE…
“They’re all going to fade. They’re all like a stain. There’s no ammonia or peroxide so it doesn’t open the cuticles. That’s what most permanent color does. This type of color rests on the top. And depending on how course your hair is, [will] how long it’ll last.”
ON HOW TO KEEP THE RESULTING DRYNESS UNDER CONTROL…
“I would suggest stepping up your conditioner or maybe [using] a nice mask, because [the dye will] make [your hair] a bit dryer and a little courser. It doesn’t have to be gnarly—I don’t want to scare people from doing it! Most product lines have something rich with moisture and reparative. At my salon we use Oribe and Christophe Robin; both of them have great options. The Christophe Robin Cleansing Mask with Lemon, which won't fade the color, along with the Lavender Oil as a treatment, [are my favorites].
ON THE WAY TO FADE (OR NOT)…
“The more you wash [your hair] the faster it’s going to come out. Jemima was clearly shampooing her hair because she was enjoying the fade out. Where I have Lizzy—and she has this whole crew who I do rainbow colors on—they know how to stretch it. They use dry shampoos and non-sulfite shampoos and their color lasts them for months. On other people, the color’s practically gone in two weeks.”
ON THE NEXT BIG COLOR AND JUST WHAT’S SO SPECIAL ABOUT PINK…
“You know what I think might be next? Peach—because I’ve had two requests now from two famous outlets. For the fun colors, there’s something that feels feminine about pink. Even for myself, I’ve played with rainbow colors in my hair and for some reason with pink, I just felt really flirty in it—more than with other colors. And Lizzy, she’s had so many colors, and now she’s on this pink. There’s just something so loveable about it. For as cool and hardcore as these girls are they also still want to feel girly and pretty.”
ON HOW TO DIY IT (AT LEAST PART OF IT)…
“I use a lot of Manic Panics—you don’t need a cosmetologist license to buy Manic Panic. Manic Panic now has bleaching kits, but I’ve never used one so I don’t know how good they are. Personally, I work at a hair salon, so I use professional products that you need a license to buy. If they’re doing it themselves, like all by themselves, I suggest doing it just on the tips of their hair to get a little feel for it—if you try to do the whole thing it could be really spotty. If you try and do your whole head with bleach you could end up with animal print. Or they could go to a hair salon and get highlights, then put the color in themselves.”
VOGUE: DREE HEMINGWAY TAKES THE BRUNETTE PLUNGE: HOW TO WARM UP WINTER SKIN WITH A DEEPER HAIR COLOR
After spotting Dree Hemingway on Instagram today with freshly dyed chestnut hair, we had to wonder: Did the perennial golden girl plan to mark her 27th birthday with a dramatic above-the-neck transformation?
“It’s not like she woke up one day and said, ‘I want to be a brunette!’” colorist Lena Ott, owner of Suite Caroline salon in New York City, says of taking the model-actress’s flaxen hair several shades darker for an upcoming film role. To create the perfect shade for Hemingway’s fair skin, Ott applied a pearly medium-toned dye over Hemingway’s sunny highlights for a “cool gold brown” hue with no hint of copper and plenty of light-catching dimension.
Dree Hemingway HairPhoto: Courtesy of Dree Hemingway / @dreelouise
While Hemingway’s new look made us do a double take, the real appeal of her deeper color was quite subtle. Contrary to popular belief, blonde hair can wash out pale skin, says Ott, while a dark shade gives the impression of a healthy glow. “The biggest change was how warm her skin looked.” Consider us sold.
ALLURE DIRECTORY: BEST OF BEAUTY
Best Colorist for a Major Change Suite Caroline Salon, Lena Ott
Best Colorist for a Major Change Suite Caroline Salon, Lena Ott
Color, $440 and up
65 Greene St.
She can take even the deepest brunettes to a glowing blonde—and keeps hair smooth and strong in the process.
W MAGAZINE: ONLY THE HIGHLIGHTS
OUR EDITORS RELY ON THE BEST COLORISTS IN NEW YORK FOR THEIR SHINY LOCKS. HERE, THEY NAME NAMES.
“I’ve been seeing Mauricio for highlights for a few years now and I’m totally hooked. His painting technique delivers super natural results.” – Nora Milch, Accessories Editor
Highlights with Mauricio at Suite Caroline starting at $250, 65 Greene Street, 2nd Floor, suitecaroline.
ALLURE DIRECTORY: COLOUR WIZARDS
Color, $275 and up
65 Greene St.
The place: Owner Lena Ott wanted a space where artists, models, and their cool friends could gather. Mission accomplished.
The word: Bermudez transforms girl-next-door types into worldly femmes fatales.
What we got: A scattering of warm, buttery highlights around our face and crown.
Bottom line: Our sun-drenched hair gave our skin a healthy, rosy hue (a friend even asked if we had gotten a facial). Bermudez included a shiny blowout. (Our bill: $310.)
STYLE.COM: ASK A PRO
Mauricio Bermudez, a colorist at Suite Caroline in New York City, is so passionate about deep hair colors that his work at the salon is referred to as "Bermudez's Brunettes." He has taken multiple models from blond to brown and says that there's more to it than most women realize. "You can't just grab a bottle of brown dye from the drugstore and dump it on or the color will look inky and fake—nobody wants it to look like a wig." He suggests going to a pro who will know how to create the right base for the brown and a natural-looking hairline.
NEW YORK POST: ADD METAL TO YOUR MANE WITH HOLLYWOOD’S HOTTEST HIGHLIGHTS
Mauricio Bermudez, a colorist at Suite Caroline in Soho, uses metallic-y toners and glosses. “You can have tri-reflective hues, almost like car paint,” says Bermudez. “We do
the balayage technique, hand-painting highlights, and afterward have fun adding in color with these tonal glazes.”
The effects, however, can be fleeting. Bermudez recommends using gentle, sulfate-free shampoo to avoid stripping the color, while Robinson suggests weekly glosses.
Then again, fly-by-night color has its advantages. “It’s a way for people to be adventurous without being super committed to it,” says Bermudez.
FREE PEOPLE: BRAIDS IN THE PARK WITH SUITE CAROLINE
Hair Stylist Amy Farid
Braids are my favorite hairstyle, and here’s why: They’re the oldest and longest-lasting hairstyle, worn by every culture, from ancient times to present day. They’re timeless and perfect for every occasion!
1 Instead of a roller set, do braid sets. Spray a texturizing or sea salt spray into the hair, braid and then let the hair dry. When you take out the braids you will have the most perfect mermaid texture!
2. It’s easier to braid dirty hair… awesome if you don’t have time to wash your hair. Spray in some dry shampoo and start braiding away!
4. Backcomb the hair instead of using an elastic or rubber band to hold the braid. After braiding, back comb the ends with a tail comb and add hairspray to hold.
5. Braids can be worn anywhere… whether it’s a dressy event or casual day out, a braid is always appropriate!
6. Messy braids are the best! Buy some bobbie pins or hairpins and have fun trying out different styles!
TIMEOUT NY: THE BEST HAIR SALONS FOR COLOR TREATMENTS IN NEW YORK
FREE PEOPLE: SUITE CAROLINE SALON X FREE PEOPLE: LAVENDER LOCKS WITH SPARKS HAIR COLOR
All month, the talented stylists at Suite Caroline Salon in NYC have been transforming every-day hair into easy-to-manage ‘do’s, perfect for fall. Today, for our third and final tutorial, salon owner and color expert Lena is creating pastel tresses using Sparks Hair Color! We knew just the girl to take on our blonde-to-lavender journey – our graphic designer Alistair. Check out her transformation below.
More on Free People blog...
BYRDIE EXCLUSIVE: ANJA RUBIK’S ENTIRE BEAUTY ROUTINE, RIGHT HERE
What makes a woman an icon? The number of social media followers she has, or the number of girls who dress up as her for Halloween? Is it a woman's ability to shake things up, or simply her enviable bone structure? According to Merriam-Webster, an icon is “an object of uncritical devotion”—in which case, model Anja Rubik fits the definition to a (well-tailored) T.
A muse of Karl Lagerfeld and favorite on the runways of Chanel, Chloé, and Gucci, the Polish-born model has certainly left her mark on the modeling world—just flip through any major magazine and you’ll see the proof. But this year, Rubik is venturing down a new path—that of a creator, rather than muse. Her newly-launched fragrance, Original, is a soft, lily-based scent that Rubik says is "more than just a beautiful smell."
We hopped on a call with her expecting to learn about her fragrance, and perhaps pick up a skincare tip or two. Instead, Rubik turned out to be a fount of beauty knowledge, with a wealth of product recommendations, makeup tricks, and hair advice that she was more than happy to divulge. Keep scrolling to find out Rubik’s fragrance philosophy, why she rarely shampoos, all about her love of fake freckles, and more!
“My biggest secret is my colorist. Although we talk about texture, having the color done the right way also gives the right texture to your hair. My colorist is at Suite Caroline in Soho—Lena Ott. She is amazing.”
“I have a lot of products, a lot of things done to my hair constantly on shoots, so it tends to get a little dry. If I don’t have to, I won’t wash my hair for as long as I can. When you over-wash your hair and you use too much shampoo, it dries your hair out. When I do wash my hair, I like La Biosthetique products. Also, I use a lot of oils—I love adding some Moroccanoil ($43) in after I wash my hair.
I brush my hair when I wash it and then I don’t brush it until I wash it again. I don’t blow-dry my hair, so I usually go to sleep with wet hair. Obviously there are different ways to do that kind of model-off-duty texture. You can do little buns on top of your head, and then when you let it go, it has that natural wave. Or, try a French brand with a dry shampoo—I like Klorane’s Dry Shampoo($20). And also a little bit of hairspray; L’oreal Elnett ($13) is a classic. Just put your hair upside down and mess it up, it gives you nice boost. I brush it, then apply some oils, then let it go."
VOGUE: WHY EASY WAVES AND SUNGLASSES ARE A NATURAL MATCH: DOUTZEN KROES, MIRANDA KERR, AND MORE
If there’s one beauty lesson to be gleaned from frequent flyers, outdoor types, and paparazzi magnets alike, it’s that there’s no better way to transform a bare face and rumpled hair into a thing of Instagram-worthy beauty than with the perfect pair of sunglasses—a concept some of our favorite off-duty models have elevated into an art form. Behati Prinsloo and Doutzen Kroes channeled Almost Famouswith textured hippie middle parts and mirrored Ray-Bans. Fresh from the Suite Caroline salon in New York, Alessandra Ambrosio accentuated her caramel highlights with tone-on-tone tortoiseshell frames, while Miranda Kerr enjoyed a sunny spring day with violet-tinted lenses and a neat knot. And discovering the hidden glamour in a low ponytail and a cozy sweater, Sasha Luss posted a selfie wearing gold-rimmed aviators. Here, five easy arguments for greeting the sunny season with bedhead and a new pair of shades.
VOGUE PARIS: GUIDE NYFW : SOFIA SANCHEZ DE BETAK NOUS DÉVOILE SES 5 ADRESSES BEAUTÉ À NEW YORK
5. Mon salon de coiffure : Suite Caroline
“Le meilleur coloriste de la ville, tout simplement !”
Suit Caroline, 65 Greene St, New York, NY 10012
Crédit photo : www.instagram.com/suitecarolinesalon
INTO THE GLOSS: ANJA RUBIK
There are a couple of notable things about Anja Rubik’s hair that makes it some of the best in the business. It’s fine but not thin, plus years of blond-ing has imbued it with plenty of texture to work with. And speaking of blond, Lena Ott at Suite Caroline is in charge of Anja’s shade, often doing it in stages to keep that texture just the way it is. Couple all that with the skills of a supermodel, and you’ve got someone who knows how to work a hairdo.
But perhaps the most important takeaway is this: She tries to wash her hair as infrequently as possible. “It changes because of work, but I like to go a week in between washes,” she said. “If I’m on vacation, even longer.” Now, to each their own in terms of washing schedule (you can be a fresh-hair-every-day kind of person and still qualify as “cool,” trust), but an infrequent shampoo cadence can make it difficult to style your hair multiple ways, multiple days, without starting over every time. That's where the art of dry-styling comes in. Perfect for the washing-lazy, hot tool-adventurous, and anyone else with some hairspray and nothing else better to do, Anja instructs:
First of all, you have to use product sparingly. Secondly, you have to use the right product that lets you style to your heart's content without starting from scratch every time. Anja is the campaign girl for Kérastase’s brand-spankin’ new L’Incroyable Blow Dry—a reshapable heat lotion that lets your restyle without getting sticky like a gel—so that part isn’t really a problem.
“I use it right after I get out of the shower at night on wet hair,” Anja says. “It helps thicken the hair—then I wake up with something to work with.” That's step 1. The rest of her week looks something like this...
Days 1-3: Messy Texture
With a slept-on base of L’Incroyable, you’ve already got some shape with very little effort. “If some of the bends are going the wrong way, I’ll help them out a little bit with water and my fingers or a curling iron. But I know my hair is going to fall through the day,” Anja adds. So spray some dry shampoo at the roots (Powder Bluff is good for oil reduction, without the grit of some sprays), and your choice of light hold hairspray if you think you need it.
Pro-tip: So maybe you’re not born with already close-to-perfect texture. Matt Fugate, Kerastase's consulting hairstylist on hand for the shoot, suggests loosely coiling sections of the hair around a heated barrel (his is Hot Tools) and then pinning in place with metal clips. Let cool all the way to set, then release!
Days 2-5: The Updo
“This is what I do when I’m going out to dinner or to an event—it feels like my hair, but a little more polished. And it’s good to do this when my hair has a little more product in it because it stays up better. It takes literally 30 seconds, too.” Brush up to the crown of the head (or higher) and secure with a Blax Clear Snag-Free Hair Elastic that’s truly invisible. Pull out the baby hairs with your fingers or a brush and spray with hairspray at your leisure.
Days 6-7: The Blowout
End with the polished blowout. Surprised? Don’t be. At this point, if you’re still going on no washes, you’ll be working with your natural oils for something shiny and smooth. Anja dampens hair with Spray à Porter and begin to blow-dry. “I flip my head over and brush with the Mason Pearson Paddle. I can’t use round brushes…I get too tangled.” To finish, she spritzes the same brush with a spray oil like Elixir Ultime Volume Beautifying Oil Mist and runs over the hairline and the ends, coaxing them into a more controlled bend. Work it for however long you can stand it then wash it out and start all over again.
INTO THE GLOSS: ALEXANDRA SPENCER
Alexandra Spencer, 4th And Bleeker
My hair used to be really long and healthy and great. But then I dyed it white when I was modeling about four years ago and it’s still fried. Plus, they would put so much product in it that I had to wash it every night just to feel clean, which was probably not great for it either. I was using any shampoo and conditioner I could find in the hotel room and it was getting worse and worse. Now I wash my hair every second day and use Kérastase Masque Chroma Riche Conditioner—the only thing that brought my hair back to normal. Sometimes I’ll go a week without washing it. I don’t use much product beyond a hairbrush and some Alterna Caviar Anti-Aging Perfect Texture Finish Spray.
It took me a really long time to find the right blond in New York. They do it really well in Australia, but here it would always be a disaster. Now I go to Mauricio at Suite Caroline. He’s a beautiful Italian teddy bear. The first time he did my color, I nearly burst into tears because I looked like a normal blond person again, not someone with crazy yellow hair.
And now I also use pieces for fullness—I get them done in LA at Salon Benjamin. They’re real hair and the same length as everything else. I like to put them in places on my head so no one can add extensions during photoshoots…it’s kind of like an asshole model move. But whenever they try to add hair, it’s curly and I end up looking like a pageant child. But in all seriousness, it’s the best thing you can do for your hair to make it look good all the time. I’ve been telling people it’s the new Botox.”
—as told to ITG
INTO THE GLOSS: SORAYA SILCHENSTEDT
Soraya Silchenstedt, Jewelry Designer
I don’t really do anything with my hair—I wash it and sleep on it. Then I wake up, and it looks great! I love this Philip Kingsley Body Building Shampoo for very fine hair. That and the conditioner are super moisturizing, smell good, and they don’t weigh the hair down. I don’t wash it a lot, but then it gets oily pretty quickly, so the Klorane Dry Shampoo with Oat Milk is my version of hairspray. It kind of gives me some body.
Recently, I really wanted to get highlights in my hair, and I found this guy Mauricio Bermudez, and he works at a salon now called Suite Caroline. He is amazing and hand-painted all these different colors. You really can’t notice it, but that’s kind of what I like about it. It's what his hair looks like, too.
INTO THE GLOSS: MIRABELLE MARDEN
Mirabelle Marden, Artist
Since I’m really lazy, it’s nice to have a one-step process for my hair. I shampoo and condition and that’s it. Plus Mauricio Bermudez at Suite Caroline just colored my hair again—he can read my mind—so I can’t use anything harsh. I started washing it with Purely Smooth Soft Shiny Safe Perfecting Cream for Hair shampoo and conditioner, which works really well. The Serge Normant Meta Blonde Reviving Shampoo has this amazing gold color and I think it really makes my color nicer. But you're not supposed to use it all the time.
If I want to add a little style, I’ll spray on some Brooklyn Beach Hair. It doesn’t make your hair crunchy like a lot of other salt sprays. I used to always use Bumble and bumble, but I switched to this one because the texture is just that much better.
VOGUE: WHERE TO GO FOR A POST-FASHION WEEK HAIRCUT: FOUR OFF-THE-GRID INSIDER SALONS
From the tongue-in-cheek Magic 8 Ball hair consultations to the whimsical “selfie” mirror with a Warhol-esque flower-pattern silk-screened pattern background, this airy SoHo studio is bursting with the wit and creativity of owner Lena Ott. Make no mistake, though, Ott is serious about color. Models Doutzen Kroes, Anja Rubik, and Behati Prinsloo owe their sun-kissed balayage to her handiwork and **Rachel Weisz’**s rich brunette is her doing.
65 Greene Street, 2nd Floor
New York, NY 10012
Click link for full article.
W MAGAZINE: ANNUAL LIST OF DESIGNERS, ACTORS, ARTISTS, AND MUSICIANS TO WATCH NOW
Doutzen Kroes, Juliana Schurig, Anja Rubik, Dree Hemingway, and Rachel Weisz have all visited Lena Ott’s new second-story SoHo salon, Suite Caroline. And it’s easy to see why: The gallery-worthy art, terrarium tables, ceiling-scraping bookshelves, and ultrasoft blankets at the washing sinks make it feel like a home away from home. Ott, 36, even installed a large table in the back to encourage her artist friends to work or hang out in the sun-drenched loft. “It’s a creative zone where people can brainstorm ideas,” says Ott, who built her following doing balayage and rainbow colors. “And come up with the next big trend.”
VOGUE: THE MODEL COLORIST: LENA OTT
She was on Alexander Wang's speed dial after he attempted to bleach his on brows; model Doutzen Kroes frequently tags her in Instagram photos. Now, after more than a year of house calls (following a stint at nearby Ion Studio). Lena Ott, colorist to top models from Anja Rubik to Raquel Zimmermann, is otpening an atelier of her own. Suite Caroline, named for her mother, is housed in an airy loft awash in sunlight. The first piece of art on the exposed-brick walls? A photograph from client Rachel Weisz. 'It's stunning,' says Ott.